The best places for artesanato include the Mercado Central (Av. Alberto Nepomuceno 199, tel. 85/3454-8586, 7:30 a.m.–6:30 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 8 a.m.–4 p.m. Sat., 8 a.m.–noon Sun.), which is particularly good for hammocks, and the Centro do Turismo (Rua Senador Pompeu 350, tel. 85/3101-5507, 8 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 8 a.m.–noon Sat–Sun.). Ceart (Av. Santos Dumont 1589, Aldeota, tel. 85/3101-1644, 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 9 a.m.–3 p.m. Sat.), which also has a boutique in the Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar, sells pricier but very good quality artesanato. You can also peruse the stands at the nightly Feira Noturna held on Avenida Beira Mar from 5 p.m. onward, although you’ll have to search hard amid the profusion of souvenirs and tourist trinkets.
For contemporary fashion and beachwear, head to a couple of small malls in the chic hood of Aldeota, inland from Meireles: Shopping Buganvilia (Av. Dom Luís 1113) and Jardins Open Mall (Av. Desembargador Moreira 1011). Dirt-cheap clothing, shoes, and jewelry of the R$1.99 variety can be found by plunging into the bazaar-like commercial area surrounding Praça José Alencar, poetically known as the Beco da Poeira (Dust Alley).
Excerpted from the Third Edition of Moon Brazil.