A Walk Back in Time on Maui’s Lahaina Pali Trail
Hot, dry, and with incomparable views, the Lahaina Pali Trail is a literal walk back in time to days when reaching Lahaina wasn’t quite so easy. This five-mile, three-hour (one-way) hike is the most strenuous trek in West Maui, as the zigzagging trail climbs for 1,600 feet before reaching a crest by the Kaheawa Wind Farm. While torturous on both your legs and your thirst, the reward for the uphill slog is panoramic views over the central valley and dozens of humpback whales off the coast during the winter.
Tracing its way over a part of the island that receives less than 10 inches of rainfall annually, this trail was originally constructed about 400 years ago during the reign of Pi‘ilani, who envisioned a footpath wrapping around the island. When a dirt road was constructed along the coast in 1911, the trail fell into disrepair. Nevertheless, hikers will still encounter evidence of ancient activity such as stone shelters and rock walls. It’s surreal to imagine that only 100 years ago this was the preferred route for reaching Lahaina. To get the most out of this hike, pick up the hiking guide the Na Ala Hele trail system has published entitled “Tales from the Trail,” which provides an interactive historical tour aligned with markers along the trail. Copies are available at the Department of Land and Natural Resources building in Wailuku (54 High St.), or, if you have a smartphone, download it as a PDF you can carry with you on the trip.
The downside of this trail is that since it’s a one-way hike it can take some logistical planning. The Ukumehame trailhead on the Lahaina-side is at mile marker 10.5 about a half-mile after the tunnel in a small dirt parking lot on the inland side of the highway. If you depart from the Ukumehame trailhead, the path ascends moderately and offers pristine views of the coral reefs below. After the trail levels out at 1,600 feet and you reach the crest by the wind farm, it will descend steeply and sharply to the opposite trailhead between Ma‘alaea and the junction of Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Hwy. 30) and North Kihei Road.
Your four options for the return route are to either leave a car at the opposite trailhead, hike back the way you came, hitchhike back to the original trailhead, or turn back the way you came once you reach the wind farm (which is the shortest and most practical option). If you plan on only hiking half the trail, setting out from the Ma‘alaea trailhead offers better views of the valley and Kealia Pond, whereas departing from the Ukumehame trailhead offers better views of the coastline and whale-watching opportunities. For the intrepid and those equipped with headlamps, the Ukumehame side is the best sunset perch on the West Side. Since there is absolutely no shade on this hike and it can get brutally hot, it’s imperative to avoid the middle of the day and to pack more water than you would normally need. Also, since this area is so dry, it’s a tinderbox ready to ignite at any moment, so don’t smoke or use a lighter at any point on your hike. You’ll be passing over rocky, rugged terrain, so wear closed-toe shoes.