Metlakatla Inn (3rd Ave. and Lower Milton St., 907/886-3456, www.metlakatlainn.com, $89 s or d) has a half-dozen standard motel rooms with microwaves, fridges, Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and a guest computer. Meals and car rentals are available.

Tuck’em Inn (907/886-1074, www.alaskanow.com/tuckem-inn, $85 s, $95 d) has six comfortable and well-kept bedrooms in two houses on the same street. Some units have private baths, and all include small fridges and microwaves plus light breakfast fixings. The owners also operate a full-service restaurant (Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–7 p.m., Sat. 9:30 a.m.–7 p.m.) with dinners that range from $6 burgers to $24 steaks.

Get huge portions of burgers, fish-and-chips, and other greasy fare at the Mini Mart (907/886-3000). No wonder half the local population seems obese! There’s a little espresso stand near the floatplane dock, or head to Leask’s Market for groceries. Check the bulletin board here for such items as hand-carved fossil ivory or fresh Ooligan grease (if you don’t know what it is, you probably won’t like it). Metlakatla is a dry town, so alcoholic beverages are not allowed.