Food

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For breakfast, coffee, sandwiches, and sweets, try confiterías like La Alpina (Perito Moreno 98, tel. 02944/42-5693).

Bariloche abounds in pizzerias, starting with the inexpensive, unpretentious, and excellent Cocodrilos (Mitre 5, tel. 02944/42-6640, lunch and dinner daily), although El Mundo de la Pizza (Mitre 759, tel. 02944/42-3461, lunch and dinner daily) has greater variety. In addition to pizza, Césare (20 de Febrero 788, tel. 02944/43-2060, lunch and dinner daily) prepares around 20 kinds of empanadas.

Even the staff seem to be enjoying themselves at the informal Trentis Lakebar (Juan Manuel de Rosas 435, tel. 02944/42-2350, lunch and dinner daily), with a menu of inexpensive sandwiches, the occasional oddity (for Argentina) such as quesadillas (probably unrecognizable to most Californians, but not bad), and good vibes. Lake views and Wi-Fi are bonuses, but it gets crowded.

On the Llao Llao road, the Berlina Brew House & Restaurante (Avenida Bustillo 11750, tel. 02944/52-3336, www.cervezaberlina.com) offers beer samplers and excellent sandwiches plus pizzas, pastas, and a few standard Argentine dishes such as bife de chorizo. Open from 1 p.m., it has an outdoor beer garden and a 5–7 p.m. happy hour.

Only a short distance west, Bahía Serena (Avenida Bustillo 12275, tel. 02944/52-4614, lunch and dinner daily) specializes in pastas and is one of few Bariloche restaurants to enjoy a lakefront location and even an adjacent small sandy beach. Game dishes are also on the menu, but pastas remain the best choice (though some stuffed pastas feature wild game).

For smoked ciervo (venison), jabalí (wild boar), and trucha (trout), visit expanded Ahumadero Familia Weiss (Palacios and V. A. O’Connor, tel. 02944/43-5789, www.restauranteweiss.com, lunch and dinner daily), a tourist-oriented parrilla and beer garden that also packages these items for takeaway. Specialties include pork loin with raspberry sauce and applesauce with a side of spaetzle (US$11).

In new tobacco-free quarters, La Vizcacha (Eduardo O’Connor 630, tel. 02944/42-2109, lunch and dinner daily) is a venerable downtown parrilla. The full-sized bife de chorizo at El Boliche de Alberto (Avenida Bustillo Km 8.8, tel. 02944/46-2285, www.elbolichedealberto.com, lunch and dinner daily) will challenge all but the most ravenous adolescents; even the half-portion (US$9) may be too large for a single diner and some couples.

Primarily a parrilla but also serving excellent trout, Tarquino (24 de Septiembre and Saavedra, tel. 02944/42-1601, www.virtuosoytarquino.com.ar, lunch and dinner daily) is a Hansel-and-Gretel construction with high ceilings that has been erected around living trees. Most entrées, including venison ravioli and ñoquis, cost around US$8–9, but a handful are dearer.

Despite the name, Kandahar (20 de Febrero 698, tel. 02944/42-4702, www.kandahar.com.ar, dinner only) does not serve Afghan food but rather Patagonian game dishes such as a venison casserole garnished with applesauce and red cabbage (US$12) in intimate surroundings with a Sinatra soundtrack. The service is excellent, the kitchen involved, but the dessert menu is weak.

Camouflaged in residential Barrio Belgrano, Naan (Campichuelo 568, tel. 02944/42-1785, naan [at] restaurante [dot] com [dot] ar, dinner only) produces a truly cosmopolitan menu of local dishes with creative touches, complemented by French, Italian, Mexican, and even Vietnamese entrées in moderately sized and flavorful portions. Entrées start around US$10, the service is highly individual, and two huge picture windows offer panoramas of Bariloche, Nahuel Huapi, and the cordillera behind the lake.

Relocated to Lago Gutiérrez, Cassis (Peñon de Arelauquen, RP 82, tel. 02944/47-6167, www.cassis.com.ar, dinner only) is a gourmet-style Patagonian restaurant specializing in game dishes.

For picadas, pizzas, and draft beer, don’t miss Cervecería Blest (Avenida Bustillo 11600, tel. 02944/46-1026, lunch and dinner daily, US$10); it closes relatively early, at midnight.

Despite its intimidating size, cavernous El Patacón (Avenida Bustillo Km 7, tel. 02944/44-2898, www.elpatacon.com, lunch and dinner daily, US$20) has personalized service and meticulously prepared food. Former U.S. President Bill Clinton dined on dishes such as the provoletta appetizer and venison ravioli, whose prices are rapidly rising.

Bariloche has exceptional ice creameries, starting with Abuela Goye (Quaglia 221, tel. 02944/42-2311). The real standout, though, is Helados Jauja (Perito Moreno 18, tel. 02944/43-7888; Palacios 156), whose dizzying diversity includes unconventional wild fruit flavors, half a dozen or more kinds of chocolate, and the remarkable mate cocido. (There’s even greater variety at its home base in node:18107 link El Bolsón].)

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