Once a separate estancia, since absorbed by adjacent Estancia Anita, Hostería Alta Vista (RP 15 Km 35, tel./fax 02902/49-9902, www.hosteriaaltavista.com.ar, US$366 s, US$483 d) is an outpost of the Braun-Menéndez dynasty that dominated the Patagonian wool industry of Chile and Argentina.

As such, its seven-room casco is the place to be spoiled; surrounded by luxuriant gardens in a sheltered location at the foot of 1,294-meter Cerro Freile, it has a guests-only bar-restaurant, a separate quincho for lamb asados, and flawless service from its English-speaking staff.

Alta Vista also offers excursions that include horseback riding in the nearby hills, offering a small lagoon full of wildfowl with condors soaring above, and distant views of the Moreno Glacier. Two-night packages that include excursions to the glacier and other more remote sights are slightly more expensive.

Accommodations are all-inclusive except for incidentals such as telephone charges and laundry. Alta Vista also offers activities-oriented packages at rather higher prices.