BCS 286 ends at Los Planes, but if you follow the graded road that continues east, you’ll end up at the Bay of the Dead.

The dark name of this pretty bay dates back to the 18th century, but its exact origins are unknown. At least two later incidents in history validated the name: In 1885 a Chinese ship landed and lost a crew of 18 to yellow fever after port authorities in La Paz refused to admit the ship. And in the early 1900s, when a group of farmers from the United States attempted to cultivate the land around the bay, the effort for some ended in starvation.

Another possible explanation is that an El Triunfo Mining company named the bay after burying train axles underwater to provide moorings for its barges.

Long-abandoned Ensenada de los Muertos dates back to the 1920s, when it was used for transporting ore from mines in the Sierra de la Laguna.

Panga boats still line the shore, but the bay is changing little by little each year as a massive luxury real estate development takes shape to the south.

Bahía de los Sueños

When complete, the Bahía de los Sueños (Bay of Dreams, toll-free U.S. tel. 866/202-0789, www.bahiasuenos.com) project will encompass 1,700 hectares with an 18-hole golf course designed by Tom Doak, 432 homes, and 192 villas and condos. Inside the Bay of Dreams development, Gran Sueños sits on 25 landscaped acres with tennis courts, a nine-hole golf course, multiple swimming pools, a fitness facility, and a long list of luxury amenities—including an on-site chef service and concierge. Its seven villas have king-size beds, rain showers, Viking barbecues, satellite TV, wireless Internet, private or shared pool and spa, and complimentary Internet calling to the United States. One-bedroom villas range US$350–750 per night; two-bedrooms are US$650–1,050 per night.

Restaurants

The former Giggling Marlin restaurant on Bahía de los Muertos has changed hands several times in recent years. At the moment, it is called Restaurant 1535, in reference to the year that Hernán Cortés landed in the bay. Casual fare is overpriced, but it’s the only option in the area and the setting is ideal for at least a limonada or cold beer after a morning snorkel. Live blues, jazz, and reggae music play on Thursday evenings 6:30–9:30 P.M.