A small ranching settlement in the sierra foothills, La Candelaria is worth a side trip if you want to get away from the crowded beaches and have an off-road adventure. Known for its pottery and curanderos (healers who specialize in herbal treatments), the town is most often visited by guided ATV tours, which stop to buy the inexpensive ceramics and swim in the palm oasis.

Fewer than 100 people live here year-round, raising livestock and tending to crops of citrus, avocado, and mango. The village itself consists of simple homes with palapa roofs, a church, and a school.

Getting to La Candelaria

There are two ways to reach La Candelaria if you want to drive yourself. The most direct, via Migriño, requires four-wheel drive. The longer route has more turns and forks, but you can make it in most regular vehicles.

From Playa Migriño: The route follows the Río Candelaria 9.1 kilometers southwest from Mexico 19 near Playa Migriño. The turnoff is not signed. Look for a dirt road three kilometers south of Km. 94, or about a half kilometer north of the main Playa Migriño turnoff (Km. 97). The road is sandy and narrow in places. Do not attempt the drive in the rainy season.

From Cabo San Lucas: From downtown Cabo San Lucas, drive along Boulevard Lázaro Cárdenas east toward San José and turn left at Boulevard Constituyentes (also labeled Av. Reforma on some maps) and the sign for La Paz Via Corta. Follow this street northwest toward Todos Santos and La Paz, past a soccer field on the left. At the power plant on the right side, turn onto a wide dirt road (1.7 km from the intersection of Blvds. Lázaro Cárdenas and Constituyentes).

From here, La Candelaria is 22 kilometers away, assuming you manage to find all the correct turns on the first try. Turn right 4.3 kilometers from the highway at the sign for La Candelaria and Los Pozos. Pass through the fence and cattle guard—an attendant may be on guard to prevent livestock theft. Watch for cattle in the road from here on.

Twelve kilometers from the highway, the road forks. Stay left, ignoring the right branch, which goes to San Felipe and El Sauzal. Next come the ranches and adobe ruins of Los Pozos. There is a small chapel 14 kilometers into the drive (measuring from the highway). Keep following signs for La Candelaria and La Trinidad, ignoring any smaller branches off the main road.

Soon the Pacific Ocean comes into view. About 21 kilometers from the highway is a turnoff for Rancho San Ramón, after which is another fork. Both branches will get you to La Candelaria, but the right fork is quicker. It crosses an arroyo, passes a turn to La Trinidad, and then arrives in La Candelaria.

ATV Tours: An easy way to visit La Candelaria is by guided ATV tour. Several companies have rental stands along Mexico 19, near Playa Migriño. Contact Baja’s Activities (Km. 104–105, tel. 624/143-2050, www.bajasactivities.com), Motosol (Km. 99.5, Mex. 19, Migriño, tel. 624/143-9393, www.atvsmotosol.com; 8 A.M.–7 P.M. daily; US$70–95), or Amigos (tel. 624/144-4161, www.amigosactivities.com) to make a reservation. Tours run US$65–90 for single riders, US$85–120 for doubles, and usually include helmets, goggles, bandanas, training, bottled water, and a bilingual guide.