For another side trip to the coast from Ensenada, turn west from Mexico 1 at Km. 78 on the paved road that leads out to the Ejido Eréndira. There is a sign for Coyote Cal’s at the turn. The road winds 24 kilometers through a canyon to the nondescript village of Eréndira (pop. 1,500). Head north along the dirt road five kilometers to Coyote Cal’s hostel, at the end of the power lines.

Three more kilometers north along the coast will bring you to Punta Cabras. South of this point, Half Moon Bay is protected from the prevailing northwest winds and catches the summertime south swells. Long Beach, to the north of the point, catches most swells and offers plenty of peaks, unless the onshore winds are killing it. There have been numerous reports of thefts in the area around River’s Mouth, but you can leave valuables at Coyote Cal’s for safekeeping.

Fishing

About 1.5 kilometers north of Eréndira, you’ll find San Isidro Cove. The buildings on the cliff on the north side above the boat ramp are Castro’s Place (tel. 646/176-2897). Vicente Castro starting fishing the area in 1949, and now his kids run the operation. They use a rusty tractor to tow their pangas in and out of the cove.

With experienced captains, the bottom fishing in this area is a no-brainer and a panga-load of four anglers can fill a 100-quart cooler in a day. Surface fishing for yellowtail and dorado is possible, but the best opportunities are on the bottom.

Castro’s provides bait, licenses, and gear, but you can use your own if you prefer. There are also clean cabins with bunks for US$25–30 per night, and you can camp for a nominal fee.

Hotels and Camping

Coyote Cal’s Mexico Hostels (Ejido Eréndira, tel. 646/154-4080, www.coyotecals.com) is a classic Baja meeting place for surfers, European backpackers, and touring motorcyclists. One of the reasons for its popularity is that there is a room for every budget. You can camp out front on the “beach” (a sandy front yard) for US$10, plus US$3 for breakfast (midsized RVs okay if self-contained). On the other end of the spectrum, there’s the top-floor Crow’s Nest room for US$60 per night (three-night minimum, reserve online) with panoramic views of the surrounding cliffs and ocean.

Bunks go for a reasonable US$15–18 per person and private rooms are US$45–50 per couple. The hostel also rents surfboards, mountain bikes, and snorkeling gear. Its new Barefoot Cantina serves XX lager, Sol, and Tecate beer as well as a menu of mixed drinks. The cantina does not serve meals, however, so plan to buy your own supplies in Ensenada on the way down.

Getting to Eréndira

Many budget travelers reach Coyote Cal’s without their own transportation. Bus fare from Ensenada costs about US$11 and drops you off at Km. 78. From here, you need to hitch a ride (easy to do, according to those who’ve done it). Catch the bus before 2 P.M. to reach the hostel before dark.

Alternatively, stay on the bus until San Vicente. When you depart, look across the street and to the left of the Pemex for Mimi Hotel. Inquire here about taxi service (tel. 646/165-6747, available 24/7 for US$25–30) to the hostel. You’ll need to speak Spanish to arrange the ride.

A third option is to hire a station wagon taxi from Ensenada (US$75 flat fee; to avoid extra costs negotiate before you get in and tell the driver the trip will include about five kilometers of dirt road driving). The taxi can stop at the Calimax store, where you can buy food, and then take you directly to the hostel.