Mama’s on the Half Shell $$

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2901 O’Donnell St., 410/276-3160

HOURS: Mon.–Thurs. 11 a.m.–11 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 11 a.m.–midnight, Sun. 9 a.m.–11 p.m.

COST: Most entrées between $10–20

Owned by the same proprietor as Nacho Mama’s a couple of doors down, this more upscale (though not uptight) seafood restaurant is done up in New England–oyster house decor. There’s nothing fake about the food here, though: the selection of oysters (available in preparations ranging from iced to oysters Rockefeller to stew) has quickly gained favor as the city’s favorite.

In fact, all the seafood here is exceptionally good, from crab cakes to shrimp to rockfish and salmon. Save room, though, for a slice of gooey, chocolate-oozing Derby pie. Despite two levels of seating and outdoor tables, this place is almost always packed (the raw bar serves until 1 a.m. and the bar is open until 2 a.m.), so plan accordingly.

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