Less than a mile beyond the Chechem Ha road, another left turn will carry you to Martz Farm (tel. 501/614-6462, www.martzfarm.com, US$20–58), a unique and relaxed homestead built and maintained by the hardworking Martinez family. Two good-natured and burly brothers, Joe and Lazaro, hacked this place out of raw bush, and they continue improving their primitive homestead.

They’ve constructed a handful of treehouses and natural cabins (one has a private bath and hot water), each seemingly sprung from wild childhood fantasies. All are open to the forest air (mosquito nets provided), and one is even built over a private dip pool in the passing creek.

Joe’s German wife, Miriam, cooks family-style meals over a traditional fire hearth in a quaint kitchen, and farm animals wander the grounds with the guests. Home-cooked meal plans and free transfers from San Ignacio or Benque are available. The facilities are slowly improving, with a few new flush toilets and hot water and showers.