King Cassava’s (tel. 501/608-6188 or 501/503-7305, 7 a.m.–midnight daily, with a two-hour afternoon break) is at the intersection where the road from Dangriga meets the sea. Here you’ll find a bar, restaurant, taxi service, pool hall, and bus stop (when the buses are running, anyway). Lobster dinners go for US$10, shots of bitters are a buck, and they also serve finger-lickin’ barbecue. It’s a great place to meet the parade of local characters.

For karaoke, visit the New Town Bar on Back Street. Thursday through Sunday you may find other music or entertainment around Hopkins.

The Lebeha Drumming Center (www.lebeha.com, tel. 501/665-9305), way up on Northside (lebeha means “the end” in Garifuna), is a notable drumming school, where Garifuna drum master Jabbar Lambey offers both private (US$15/hr) and group lessons (US$12.50 pp for two hours). Call to schedule a lesson, and once you’re there, ask about the time Grateful Dead drummer Bill Kreutzmann popped in for a jam.

There are many talented wood carvers and drum makers in Hopkins. While strolling through the village you’ll find several small shops, including Joy Jah’s Arts Center, David’s Woodcarving, and Kulcha Gift Shop.

Save time for a walk or bike ride just south of the village to pay a visit to Sew Much Hemp, where Barbara, a dreadlocked Oregonian, will teach you anything you need to know about the plant that can save the world—she’s got excellent hemp products for sale as well. If sand flies are out, this is a great place to pick up some natural repellent.