A new addition to the parish in 2008, Beau Rivage Restaurant & Bar (Newstead Resort & Spa, 27 Harbour Rd., tel. 441/232-8686, info [at] beaurivage [dot] bm, breakfast 7:30–10:30 a.m. daily, lunch noon–2:30 p.m. dinner 6:30–9:30 p.m. Mon.–Sat., brunch 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m. dinner 7–9:30 p.m. Sun.) is also the island’s only French restaurant. Award-winning chef Jean-Claude Garzia, who used to run the kitchens at the West End’s Cambridge Beaches Resort, has the perfect venue to impress his diners—a harborfront terrace, city skyline, and infinity pool—but his tantalizing dishes would do that anyway. Lunch features refreshingly Continental fare like niçoise salad ($16), Parma ham and brie baguette ($14), a South of France pan bagnat ($14.50), goat cheese and sweet peppers quiche ($12.50), and lemon cheesecake ($8.95). As you enjoy one of the best views of an island sunset, you can savor an equally satisfying dinner menu: golden frog legs in filo pastry ($15.95), daily foie gras ($20), lobster bisque with champagne ($14), oxtail shepherd’s pie with truffles ($29), and coq au vin ($31).
Attentive staff and outstanding fusion creations distinguish Seahorse Grill (Mandarin Oriental Elbow Beach Hotel, 60 South Shore Rd., tel. 441/239-9303 or 441/236-3535, ebbda-sg [at] mohg [dot] com, 6:30–10 p.m. daily, brunch noon–3 p.m. Sun.). Fresh produce from local farmers is conjured into delectable “global” offerings with Asian touches. Highlights include pan-seared yellowtail snapper with braised fennel and white truffle broth, dark ’n’ stormy pineapple terrine, and grilled buffalo striploin—lifting the island’s culinary traditions to new levels of innovation. The contemporary-designed restaurant wraps around one of the hotel’s lower levels. It bills itself as the birthplace of “New Bermudian Cuisine,” which includes lighter-fare spa dishes. Two-course prix fixe menu $58; three-course prix fixe $69.
Boasting a fabled, 300-year-old reputation, Fourways Inn (1 Middle Rd., tel. 441/236-6517, fax 441/236-5528, www.fourways.bm, dinner only 6:30–9:30 p.m. daily, brunch 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m. Sun.) offers a hefty spoonful of history along with its gourmet menu. Built in 1727 by John Harvey of the Bristol Cream clan, Fourways has been a private home, a restaurant, and a guesthouse over the years. Steeped in cedar and rife with antiques, narrow hallways, and low doorframes, it retains a charming character and is a noted architectural landmark. The restaurant’s award-winning kitchen has for decades won international accolades for its gourmet creations. With offerings such as premium Russian and American caviar, seared yellowfin tuna ($36.50), rack of lamb with ratatouille ($42.75), dark ’n’ stormy soufflé ($20.75), fresh lobsters, herbs from the garden, a wine list to get lost in—Fourways provides a dining experience you won’t soon forget. It is not a cheap date, however; dinner for two with wine will cost about $200. Patrons can choose to eat in the historic interior, where grandfather clocks and the Peg Leg Bar recall earlier times, or outside in the garden-fringed courtyard. Service is impeccable; dress code is smart-casual; the previous jacket-and-tie rule has recently been relaxed. The popular Sunday brunch is a good way to sample Fourways’s menu with an eye toward cost-effectiveness. The brunch spread of sushi, roast meats, fresh fish, seafood, pasta, and omelettes-to-order is $39.75 for adults, $20 children 6–11, kids under 5 free.
© Rosemary Jones from Moon Bermuda, 2nd Edition