If instead of a serious sit-down lunch, you’d rather spend the hottest hours of the day gorging on a succession of maritime delicacies washed down with icy beer, try any one of the beach barracas. Protected by a shady umbrella, you can dig into fresh fried vermelho fish or grilled jumbo shrimp in olive oil and garlic while taking time out for dips in the blue sea.

For a break from sand and surf, try wandering up and down the main drag of Avenida ACM, where there is no shortage of restaurants. Sabor da Vila (tel. 71/3676-1156, lunch and dinner daily, R$25–40) offers a delicious variety of dishes, with some excellent fish and seafood options.

If you want a totally Zen experience (not to mention some vegetables) dig into sushi, tempura, and other Japanese fare with a Brazilian bent at Kasato (Al. do Linguado, tel. 71/3676-0174, www.kasato.com.br, lunch and dinner Wed.–Sun., R$30–40), a seductive place whose open dining room is surrounded by greenery and romantically lit with paper lanterns.

At night, things heat up along Avenida ACM. If you want to be where the local action is grab a place to sit at Bar do Souza (tel. 71/3676-1156), known for its petiscos (appetizers), particularly the bolinhos de peixe (fish balls).

At the other end of the avenida, a more international crowd at the Tango Café (tel. 71/3676-1367) fights for the tables as well as the empanadas, sandwiches, and delicious desserts. Take note: This is one of the few places in Bahia where you can actually get a real cappuccino.