For many travelers Salvador is a complete destination in itself. Certainly the city offers all you could want from a Brazilian vacation: a rich local culture, magnificent baroque architecture, tons of museums, a vibrant nightlife with an incredible music scene, a delicious and world-renowned regional cuisine, fantastic beaches, and (in the summertime) some of the most colorful and frenzied popular festas in Brazil.

To merely get a taste of the place, you’d have to spend at least 3–4 days, but anything less than a week would be somewhat of a crime. Salvador is a notoriously relaxed city with a slower pace of life, so it would be a shame—not to mention downright anti-Bahian—to be forced to spend your time rushing around.

Toss in the easily accessible surrounding area, with its idyllic beaches, the colonial towns of the Recôncavo region, the spectacular natural attractions of the lush waterfall-studded Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina, and a pilgrimage to one or several of the famed beaches along Bahia’s southern coast, and you could easily spend 2–3 weeks in Bahia, using Salvador as a base.

Bahia can be visited all year-round. The summer months (December to March) are the hottest, with temperatures hovering around 35°C (95°F) and lots of sun. This period is high tourist season, as travelers from throughout Brazil and the world descend upon many of the most popular coastal resorts (Praia do Forte, Morro de São Paulo, Itacaré, Porto Seguro, Arraial d’Ajuda, and Trancoso). The upside is an endless array of festivities.

The downside is that prices usually rise along with the temperature. In the summertime Salvador sizzles with its lively ambiance, myriad musical shows and open rehearsals of Carnaval blocos, and especially the “season” of popular festas, which begin with the traditional Festa de Santa Bárbara (December 4) and culminate in the ever-growing musical madness and mayhem of Carnaval (usually in February or early March).

If revelry, combined with relaxation, is what you’re looking for, you’ve come to the right place. With the end of Carnaval comes what Soteropolitanos refer to as the post-Carnaval ressaca or “hangover,” which means a halt in the partying (until June) and a return to work.

Oddly enough, in a show of solidarity, Mother Nature too seems to know that the party is over because the period from April to June is usually very rainy (which doesn’t suit Salvador or its coastal regions very well since most of their livelihood revolves around outdoor bars and fabulous beaches).

Bahian “winter,” which stretches from June through September, is really a lovely time to visit the city and the coastal regions as well as the Chapada. Although short, sudden (and refreshing) downpours are common, the sun shines less intensely and the skies are a deep cerulean blue. Salvador and the Atlantic coast are less touristy and frenzied than in the summer, and except for mid-July through August, which coincides with Brazilian school vacation, the hotels and beaches are much less crowded (many Bahians think it odd to lie on a beach in the “middle of winter”).