The boho hood of Rio Vermelho comes to life at night with dozens of restaurants where one can drink and even more bars where one can eat (see Nightlife). Aside from its beaches, the rest of the orla is less interesting, although a few legendary seafood restaurants make great lunch stops after a morning spent lolling on the beaches between Barra and Itapuã.
Catering to Rio Vermelho’s significant vegetarian fringe, aside from its diverse and nicely priced healthy quilo buffet Manjeiricão (Rua Fonte de Boi 3B, Rio Vermelho, tel. 71/3335-5641, noon–3:30 p.m. Mon.–Sat., R$10–15) is a draw because of its oasis-like ambiance, overflowing with tropical fruit trees, flowers, and birds.
Companhia de Pizza (Praça Brigadeiro Faria Rocha, Rio Vermelho, tel. 71/3334-7443, 5:30 p.m.–1 a.m. Sun.–Thurs., 5:30 p.m.–2 a.m. Fri.–Sat., R$30–40) is Salvador’s hippest and arguably best pizzeria. Located in the midst of Rio Vermelho’s lively nocturnal scene, the modern, warmly lit restaurant spilling out onto the sidewalk attracts an attractive crowd who swear by the 70 varieties of pizza, not to mention calzones and panzones, all baked in a wood oven. That it’s the only pizza palace in town with a nutritionist explains the presence of ingredients such as organic eggs and hydroponic arugula. Other innovations include a “Dessert Laboratory” and a “Waiting Boteco”; a bar designed for those without the patience to wait in line for a table.
© Michael Sommers from Moon Brazil, 2nd Edition