During the day, food options, aside from hotel offerings, are mostly geared towards classic Bahian beach fare, such as the fried fish, crab, shrimp, and moquecas that are served at the many barracas. For some of the best fish and seafood dishes around, on trendy Segunda Praia try Club do Balanço (10 a.m.–7 p.m. daily, 10 a.m.–midnight daily Jan., Feb., and July, R$8–15). Meanwhile, fans of Quarta Praia swear by Bar das Piscinas (9 a.m.–10 p.m.) and Pimenta Rosa (10 a.m.–6 p.m. daily, closed June).

At night, culinary pleasures are taken more seriously. For both lunch and dinner, Sabor da Terra (tel. 75/3652-1156), on the town’s main drag, the Caminho da Praia, beckons with its wide veranda perfect for people-watching. Both Sabor and neighboring Restaurante Tinharé (tel. 75/3652-1161) serve well-seasoned Bahian fish and seafood dishes such as moqueca and bobó de camarão.

The wafting scent of freshly baked pizza emerging from a wood oven will lure you to Restaurante e Pizzaria Bianco e Nero (Caminho da Paraia, tel. 075/3652-1097, open daily for lunch and dinner, closed Mon. for lunch). For the perfect finishing touch, stop by Dona Bárbara’s sweet stand (in front of Sabor da Terra), and stock up on homemade goodies such as brigadeiro, cocadas, and quejadinhas.