Considering its popularity with weekenders from Brasília, there are lots of good hotel options in Pirenópolis. Not only are they reasonably priced (particularly during the week), but many are located in colonial homes. On weekends and during the Festa do Divino Espírito Santo and Carnaval reservations are necessary. You can also easily rent a room in a local home.
A laid-back, welcoming atmosphere reigns at the Pouso do Sô Vigário (Rua Nova 25, tel. 62/3331-1206, www.pousadaspirenopolis.com.br, R$80–150 d), which occupies the town’s 18th-century vicarage. Rooms are cozy with a mixture of country-style furnishings and framed prints by the likes of Cézanne and Van Gogh. An oasis-like inner courtyard contains a pool around which copious home-cooked breakfasts are served.
The same owners operate the Pouso do Frade (Rua do Bonfim 37/39, tel. 62/3331-1046, www.pousadaspirenopolis.com.br, R$100–140 d), with similarly inviting rooms distributed amidst a trio of colonial dwellings, all of which look onto a leafy garden with a pool.
Pousada O Casarão (Rua Direita 79, tel. 62/3331-2662, www.ocasarao.pirenopolis.tur.br, R$130–150 d) is another lovely option located in a renovated 19th-century house. The sizable rooms feature ceramic tile floors and rustic period furnishings. The living and dining areas are simultaneously homey and refined and there is an outdoor pool surrounded by hundred-year-old fruit trees.
The most upscale lodgings in town can be found across the river at the Pousada dos Pireneus Resort (Chácara Mata do Sobrado 80, tel. 62/3331-1028, www.pousadadospireneus.com.br, R$225–356 d). A prized retreat of Brasília’s politicos, this tasteful and tranquil resort is also ideal for families, with a host of kid-friendly amenities ranging from bicycles and donkey rides to a small aquatic park located in the vast garden. Adults can take advantage of a pool, sauna, and fitness and meditation rooms or merely sink into a hammock on the verandas of the attractive rooms. Dinner is included in the rate.
© Michael Sommers from Moon Brazil, 2nd Edition