Rio is legendary throughout Brazil for its botequins, informal bars that function as neighborhood headquarters for residents from all walks of life. Whether considered pé sujo (“dirty foot”) — i.e., mildly mangy holes-in-the-wall — or pé limpo (“clean foot”) — somewhat more refined and upscale — the simple botequim is first and foremost a democratic enclave where Cariocas get together (usually after work or the beach) to talk about futebol, politics, or their sex lives for hours at a time.

The drink of choice is an ice-cold chope (draft) served in traditional glasses that come in three sizes: the tulipa (“tulip”), the garotinho (“little boy”), and the mug-sized caldeireta (rarely seen since Cariocas subscribe to the belief that the larger the glass, the warmer and more undrinkable the beer gets).

To nibble, there are always plenty of mouthwatering petiscos (bar snacks), the most common being bolinhos de bacalhau (deep-fried codfish balls), carne seca desfiada (shredded sun-dried beef), and velvety thick caldo de feijão (black bean broth), traditionally served with chopped cilantro, torresmos (pork rinds), lime, and pimenta (hot pepper).