Charming bars with live music aren’t hard to find in Paraty. Margarida Café (Praça do Chafariz, tel. 24/3371-2441, www.margaridacafe.com.br) is an appealingly atmospheric restaurant/bar serving innovative cuisine and pizza and featuring live music every night.
Bar do Lúcio (Praça da Matriz 3, tel. 24/3371-8663, www.luciocruzz.com.br/bar) has a mellow bohemian vibe. MPB, jazz, and bossa nova keep things cool, and there are frequent exhibits of works by local artists.
Paraty 33 (Rua da Lapa 357, tel. 24/3371-7311, www.paraty.com.br) has a low-key tavern atmosphere and lures a younger, more animated crowd intent on partying the night away.
You don’t have to understand Portuguese to be enchanted by the plays performed by the Contadores de Estórias at the Teatro de Bonecos (Rua Dona Geralda 327, tel. 24/3371-1575, 9 p.m. Wed., Fri., and Sat., R$40). This talented, world-renowned troupe of actors manipulates a disarmingly lifelike cast of doll-like puppets (bonecos) who mutely act out poignant and hilarious dramatic sketches. Leave the kids (under 14) at home, since these puppet shows are for adults only.
© Michael Sommers from Moon Brazil, 2nd Edition