At Feijoada da Lana (Rua Aspicuelta 421, Vila Madalena, tel. 11/3814-9191, noon–3:30 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 12:30–5:30 p.m.), feijoada is the plat de résistance. Lana prepares hers using velvety black beans that are kept steaming hot in an immense clay cauldron. The rest of the classic fixings—sun-dried meat, sausages, and pork—are served separately (meaning you don’t have to eat ears, tails, or snouts). During the week, all-you-can-eat feijoada is R$22. On the weekends, the price doubles to R$44, but you also get caipirinhas and dessert.
If you can’t get to Minas to try its much-vaunted regional cuisine, a popular Paulistano alternative is Consulado Mineiro (Praça Benedito Calixto 74, Pinheiros, tel. 11/3064-3882, www.consuladomineiro.com.br, noon– 1 a.m. Tues.–Sat., noon–midnight Sun., R$35–45). Dishes are hearty, tasty, no-nonsense affairs such as galinhada, a risotto made with saffron, rice, chicken, and vegetables and served with tutu, a rich puree of beans with pork. The equally requested mexidão is a stew whose “mishmash” of ingredients include sun-dried beef, pork, beans, kale, pork rinds, egg, and fried bananas. The generous portions easily feed two.
© Michael Sommers from Moon Brazil, 2nd Edition