Surprisingly, viewing the city’s recent sprucing up of the city for tourists, Belém doesn’t have many decent hotels. Many of the more centrally located options are pretty down-and-out, and even standard mid- and upper-range options are disappointing. Fortunately, there are a few exceptions.

Apart from its ideal location on Praça da República, Hotel Grão Pará (Av. Presidente Vargas 718, tel. 91/3321-2121, www.hotelgraopara.com.br, R$90 d) is a spotless and recently renovated mid-’60s era hotel that offers excellent value. The sizable air-conditioned rooms are rather bland, but well-maintained and the staff is helpful.

Another terrific deal is Le Massilia (Rua Henrique Gurjão 236, Reduto, tel. 91/3222-2834, www.massilia.com.br, R$90–110 d). One of Belém’s only intimate hotels, the standard but comfortable air-conditioned rooms are housed in low-slung brick villas with cool tile floors and polished wooden fixtures. Aside from a refreshing pool and courtyard, there is a very decent French restaurant (the hotel’s owner is French) serving excellent steak au poivre and escargots. The hotel also organizes city tours and fishing and boating excursions.

On the same street is a new modern hotel, the Machado’s Plaza Hotel (Rua Henrique Gurjão 2000, Reduto, tel. 91/4008-9817, www.machadosplazahotel.com.br, R$220 d). The spotless, attractive furnished rooms lack views, but have welcome splashes of color, nice lighting, and wireless Internet access. There is a also small pool and a fitness room.

If you want to constantly be reminded that you are indeed in the Amazon, Beira Rio Hotel (Av. Bernardo Sayão 4804, Guamá, tel. 91/4008-9000, www.beirariohotel.com.br, R$140–180 d) is a good choice. The basic but cheery rooms all look out over the Rio Guamá, and the reputed bungalow-style restaurant is suspended above its waters. The hotel’s only drawback is its isolated location. The close proximity of several favelas mean that you’ll need to rely on buses (by day) or taxis to get around.

When it opened in 2006, the Crowne Plaza Belém (Av. Nazaré 375, Nazaré, tel. 91/3202-2000, www.crownebelem.com.br, R$330–450 d) usurped the title of Belém’s swishest hotel from the long-reigning (but tired) Belém Hilton. With easy access to Centro and surrounded by lots of restaurants, this gleaming if somewhat stark new behemoth boasts massive rooms outfitted with comfy beds, large-screen plasma TVs, and large bathrooms. Geared more towards execs than leisure travelers, the hotel is efficient and friendly, although the decor lacks personality. Amenities include a small pool, sauna, fitness center, and Internet access.