As developed as it is, the north coast is not an easy place to find good eating options. A very pleasant exception to the rule is the low-key but sophisticated Estação 261 (Av. das Raias 261, Praia do Jurerê, tel. 48/3282-9944, 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m. daily, 7 p.m.–midnight Tues.–Sat., R$35–45). At lunch, choose from a small per kilo buffet of contemporary dishes, while at dinner, à la carte specials include imaginative and attractively presented salads, seafood, and grilled meats, all of which serve two.

More modest is the family-style Pescador Lobo (Rua José Cardoso de Oliveira, Praia do Forte, tel. 48/3282-0631, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Thurs., 9 a.m.–8 p.m. Fri.–Sun., 9 a.m.–midnight daily in summer, R$25–35), overlooking the sea and the Fortaleza de São José da Ponta Grossa. It’s owned by a local fisherman whose nickname is Lobo (“Wolf”), and the robust seafood dishes (portions feed two) includes specialties such as gratinéed sole with cream corn and shrimp cooked in a pumpkin.