Bar do Arante (Rua Abelardo Otacílio Gomes 254, Pântano do Sul, tel. 48/3237-7022, 10 a.m.–close daily, R$25–35) has been around since 1958, when Arante and his wife, Osmarina, opened a little shack in Pantâno do Sul. Originally, they sold market produce and plates of simple, succulent fish and seafood dishes.

In the ’60s, after relocating to the beach, the bar became headquarters for students who came to camp on the deserted south coast. In those pre-cell phone days, they left written messages to each other—which explains the thousands that are still taped all over the walls and ceiling (if you want to leave one, just ask the waiter for paper and a pen). The sheer number of these notes also attests to the popularity of Osmarina’s cooking.

Try the camarão à Dona Osmarina—shrimp baked with tomatoes, cheese, and mushrooms and served with salad, rice, and french fries. All dishes feed two. On the weekends, a typical island buffet is served with numerous hot and cold specialties for R$23 per person.