Considered one of the best eateries in town, La Pigua (Av. Miguel Alemán No. 179-A, tel. 981/811-3365, 1 p.m.–5:30 p.m. & 7:30–11 p.m. daily, US$7–15) is an upscale restaurant and popular lunchtime stop for professionals and couples. The food is pricey but excellent—coconut shrimp with apple chutney is the specialty—and the service is first-rate. Recent renovations did wonders for the A-frame dining area, which went from being dark and downcast to bright and stylish, despite a narrow layout and high stone walls on either side.

The Marganzo (Calle 8 between Calles 57 and 59, tel. 981/811-3898, 7 a.m.–11 p.m. daily, US$4–15) screams tourist-trap—the male staff sport pirate outfits—but it can’t be beat for tasty food, reasonable prices, and friendly service. Seafood is the specialty—pampano relleno de mariscos (white fish filled with seafood) is a favorite among regulars—but the chicken pibil and other meat dishes do not disappoint. Servings are large, and come with a table-full of appetizers.

Steps from the Monumento al Resurgimiento and just below Fuerte de San Miguel, El Faro del Moro (Av. Resurgimiento No. 120, tel. 981/816-1990, noon–7 p.m. daily) doesn’t look like much from the outside but gets rave reviews from people who visit Campeche frequently. Tables are on a patio overlooking the Gulf—strangely enough, it’s one of the few places in this seaside town where you can have a meal right on the water. Tortillas filled with cheese and shrimp are one of several favorites.