Arguably the best pizzeria in Mérida, Pizzería Vito Corleone (Calle 59 between 60 and 62, tel. 999/923-6846, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. daily, US$2.50–7.50) is not much to look at: a true hole-in-the-wall with tables crammed into two floors and a handful of fans furiously blowing hot air around. The slices are worth every bead of sweat though: The thin-crust pizza comes smothered in cheese and red sauce and loaded with toppings of your choice. Made in four sizes, a medium is enough for two hungry travelers. Come with an appetite, order a couple of cold beers, and remember to wear a tank top. Delivery available.

Café Lucía (Calle 60 between Calles 53 and 55, tel. 999/928-0740, 7 a.m.–midnight daily, US$6–20) is an upscale restaurant featuring light Italian dishes in a space beautifully decorated with fine art—much of it for sale. On Thursday evenings, the restaurant sets up tables across the street in the Parque Santa Lucía so that diners can enjoy the weekly serenata over a fine meal or dessert.

Facing Teatro Mérida, Pane e Vino (Calle 62 between Calles 59 and 61, tel. 999/928-6228, 6 p.m.–midnight Tues.–Sun., US$6–12) is a simple but nice restaurant with thick wood tables, whitewashed walls, and art posters hung about. The food is reliable—mostly pasta dishes with a variety of classic Italian sauces. If you want more than just an entrée, order an appetizer or dessert—the side dishes tend to be skimpy.