Accommodations and Food
Set in a tropical garden, The Flycatcher Inn (southern end of town, off Hwy. 261, no phone, www.flycatcherinn.com, US$37–55.50 s/d with fan, US$55.50–65 with a/c, extra person US$9.50) is a tranquil bed-and-breakfast occupying what was once a water-purification facility. There is nothing industrial about the place, though: the three spotless rooms, one suite, and new stand-alone cottage all have large windows, handmade ironwork furniture, and sunny patios. The owners, Kristine Ellingson and Santiago Domínguez, are incredibly versed in the region’s sights and history. A large and healthy breakfast is included in the rate, during which Kristine doles out advice and info to guests preparing their day’s itinerary. The property encompasses another 10 hectares of lush forest behind the hotel, and a loop trail makes for a pleasant 40-minute walk, especially in the morning or the afternoon when the birds are out. Reservations recommended.
A kilometer south of town, Sacbe Bungalows (Hwy. 261 Km. 127, tel. 997/978-5158 or 985/858-1281, www.sacbebungalows.com.mx, US$21.50–27) offers eight simple, comfortable cement-block bungalows, all with private bath, sturdy mosquito screens, and porches. The grounds are lush and well maintained, with labels on the fruit trees, and their produce on your breakfast plate (US$4.75 pp). Owned by a friendly French-Mexican couple, Sacbe no longer offers camping or trailer hook-ups, but continues to be a reliable and affordable fixture on the Puuc Route.
On the main road to the ruins, the palapa-roofed Restaurant El Chac-Mool (Calle 18 No. 211-B, tel. 997/971-0191, 8 a.m.–9 p.m. daily, US$3.75–7.50) serves basic Yucatecan specialties, sandwiches, and a smattering of vegetarian options. The food is unremarkable—sometimes reheated, sometimes freshly made—but it’s reliable. Service is sluggish so best save this place for a post-ruins visit.
The Pickled Onion Restaurant (999/923-0708, 11 a.m.–9 p.m. daily, US$4–10) is a labor of love by the English-Canadian expat who runs it. Here you can munch on wings, shepherd’s pie, onion soup and other old-country fav’s at outdoor tables with wonderful afternoon light. The restaurant also prepares box lunches to take ruin-hopping—a great idea, as there are so few places to eat along the Puuc Route. The restaurant is the yellow building set up off the road, halfway between the Flycatcher and Sacbe Bungalows.
© Gary Chandler & Liza Prado from Moon Yucatán Peninsula, 9th edition