Car Rental

International car rental chains like Europcar, Thrifty, and Hertz have a limited presence in Chiapas, mostly in Tuxtla plus a couple in Tapachula. They occasionally have online specials but otherwise tend to be expensive (US$50–90 per day). Mexican car rental agencies are few and far between—there’s one in San Cristóbal—and often have older cars and similar rates to the international chains. Be aware that there are no car rental agencies in Palenque; the nearest ones are in Villahermosa, Tabasco, and one local agency in San Cristóbal.

Most credit cards offer free international car insurance; however, at the time of research, only Europcar offered lower prices for declining the company coverage. If you do use the agency’s insurance, be sure to get the details: Is it partial or full coverage? How much is the deductible? Does it offer a zero-deductible plan? Note: You will be asked to leave a blank credit card imprint, ostensibly to cover the deductible if there is any damage. Be sure that this is returned to you when you bring back the car.

Before renting, have the attendant review the car for existing damage—definitely accompany him on this part and don’t be shy about pointing out every nick, scratch, and ding. Other things to confirm before driving off include:

• • There is a spare tire (preferably a full-size, not temporary one) and a working jack and tire iron.
• • All the doors lock and unlock, including the trunk.
• • The headlights, brake lights, and turn signals work.
• • All the windows roll up and down properly.
• • The proper—and current—car registration is in the car.
• • The amount of gas in the tank—you’ll have to return it with the same amount.
• • There is a 24-hour telephone number for the car rental agency in case of an emergency.

Ángeles Verdes

If you break down or run out of gas on a main road during daylight hours, stay with your car. Los Ángeles Verdes (The Green Angels, toll-free Mex. tel. 078 or 800/903-9200), a government-sponsored tow truck and repair service, cruise many of these roads on the lookout for drivers in trouble. They carry a CB radio, gas, and small parts, and are prepared to fix tires. If you have a cellular phone—or happen to be near a pay phone—call your car rental agency; the Ángeles Verdes are a great backup. If you are on a remote road and don’t have a phone, you’re better off walking or hitching a ride to the nearest town.

Note: There is no Ángeles Verdes service on the road from Comitán to Lagunas de Montebello.

Driving Scams

Most travelers have heard horror stories about Mexican police and worry about being taken for all their money or being trundled off to jail without reason. In Chiapas, while there is certainly corruption among the police, they don’t typically target tourists. As long as you are a careful and defensive driver, it is very unlikely you’ll have any interaction with the police at all. Most travelers who are pulled over actually have done something wrong—speeding, running a stop sign, turning on red. In those situations, remain calm and polite. If you have an explanation, definitely give it; it is not uncommon to discuss a given situation with an officer. Who knows, you may even convince him you’re right—it’s happened to us!

Of real concern are gas station attendants. Full service is the norm here—you pull up, tell the person how much you want, and he or she does the rest. A common scam is for one attendant to distract you with questions about wiper fluid or gas additives while another starts the pump at 50 or 100 pesos. Before you answer any questions, be sure the attendant “zeroes” the pump before starting it.

© Liza Prado and Gary Chandler from Moon Chiapas, 1st Edition