Hospedaje y Restaurante Esmeralda (Calle Central Nte. near Av. Central, tel. 919/673-0014, 7:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m. daily, US$5–10) has perhaps the best restaurant in town. International and Mexican dishes are served on large wooden tables in the hotel’s homey dining room—the fajitas and chicken curry are tasty options.

Restaurante El Desvan (tel. 919/673-0117, 7 a.m.–11 p.m. daily, US$4–10) is one of many simple restaurants set around the central plaza. Most serve standard Mexican fare; here you can also get pizza.

For a hearty breakfast, try Las Delicias (Av. Central at Calle Central Nte., tel. 919/673-0024, 7 a.m.–11 p.m. daily, US$4–8), an airy restaurant with outdoor seating and great views of the plaza.

Just a block north of the plaza, Fábrica de Quesos Santa Rosa (1a Calle Ote. Nte. 11, tel. 919/673-0009, 8 a.m.–2 p.m. and 4–8 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Sun.) is a recommended shop offering a half dozen or more varieties of Ocosingo cheese. If you can’t decide which to buy, try the smooth doble crema (double cream).