El Rincón (Ruta 5, Km 494, tel. 099/ 4415019, 099/0823168, fax 043/630188, www.elrinconchile.cl) is reached from the Perales exit off the Panamericana Norte. It’s a couple kilometers farther east via a gravel road (follow the sign toward El Olivo) and a private dirt road, but owners Winfried and Elke Lohmar will pick up passengers at the highway, or in Los Ángeles, by arrangement. English, Spanish, and German are spoken.

On two hectares of secluded riverside property 15 kilometers north of Los Ángeles, El Rincón is not so much a place to stay as a destination in itself, where guests remain several days to relax among densely wooded grounds studded with fruit trees, complemented by vegetable and flower gardens. At night the only sounds are the wind in the trees and a hum from the distant Panamericana (one Sunday afternoon per month, though, roaring dirt bikes break the peace in a nearby quarry that they have appropriated for their “sport”).

Lodging at the B&B costs US$17–23 per person in four cozy double rooms (two of which have private bath) in the main accommodations; there is one single with shared bath. A separate cabaña holds up to six people for US$60. Rates include an abundant breakfast; there’s no lunch service, but excellent dinners (US$15 pp) take place on the patio or in the main house’s dining room; the food is fresh, diverse, and filling, and the wine is reasonably priced. There’s a large German-language library and a smaller book exchange (mostly in English).

The Lohmars also arrange horseback riding for US$4.50 per hour, with lessons available for US$8 per hour; Spanish lessons cost US$350 weekly per person, minimum two people, with room and full board; there is a US$120 single supplement. They also offer full-day excursions (US$100 for up to four persons) to Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja, Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta, and Concepción and vicinity. Ask for copies of their excellent informational brochures on the geology of Laguna del Laja and Nahuelbuta, available in Spanish, English, and German.