On Cerro Artillería, run by an Australian-Chilean couple, The Yellow House (Capitán Muñoz Gamero 91, tel. 0322/339435, www.theyellowhouse.com, US$33 s, US$54 d) is a cheerful new B&B. Its seven rooms, all with private bath, vary considerably in size and style.

In the eastern Almendral area, near the Congreso Nacional, there are two decent and comparably priced places: the O’Higgins Plaza Hotel (Retamo 517, tel. 0322/235616, www.restaurantohiggins.cl, US$46/56 s/d) and Hotel Bahía Valparaíso (Victoria 2380, tel. 0322/230675, www.bahiavalparaiso.cl, US$46/56 s/d).

Aspiring to be a boutique hotel, Cerro Concepción’s renovated Casa Latina (Papudo 462, tel. 0322/494622, www.casalatina.cl, US$28 pp with breakfast) gets high marks for quiet; some rooms are very large and well-lighted. It has a small terrace but no views.

Some architects adore Cerro Concepción’s Hotel Brighton (Paseo Atkinson 151, tel./fax 0322/223513, US$56–78 s or d), which mimics traditional Valparaíso in contemporary accommodations built from salvaged materials—but others really detest its retro style. Overlooking Plaza Aníbal Pinto, rooms with harbor views command the highest prices; nonguests can savor the view during lunch or dinner at its terrace restaurant.

On a short pedestrian mall, recently built Hotel Puerta del Alcalá (Pirámide 524, tel. 0322/227478, www.hotelpuertadelalcala.cl, US$73 s or d) has been one of the better flatlands additions to Valparaíso’s accommodations scene, but newer hills hotels are far more interesting; it’s also near a noisy and congested intersection.

Behind the brick Italianate facade of a century-old building, Cerro Cárcel’s 17-room Hotel Ultramar (tel. 0322/210000, www.hotelultramar.cl, US$55/60 s/d–US$88 d with buffet breakfast) is a luminous hotel with scant contemporary decoration. In what was once a private residence, the rooms vary in size and shape (some baths are a bit small, in particular), but it’s quiet and comfortable. A penthouse presidential suite goes for US$140; off-season rates are about 20 percent lower in all categories. It lacks a restaurant, but its café serves sandwiches and snacks until 10 p.m.

Cerro Bellavista’s eclectically decorated Robinson Crusoe Inn (Héctor Calvo 389, tel. 0322/495499, US$85/99 s/d) is often full, but it’s building an annex across the street.

Decorated with period or retro furniture, though the facilities are otherwise contemporary, Cerro Alegre’s eight-room Hotel Casa Thomas Somerscales (San Enrique 446, tel. 0322/331379, www.hotelsomerscales.cl, US$85/100 s/d with breakfast) was in fact the artist’s house, a classic Anglophile mansion. It’s easy walking distance to the Alegre/Concepción restaurant and nightlife district, but far enough to guarantee a good night’s sleep. Some baths have Jacuzzis.