La Chascona (Museo Neruda)
Inconspicuous from the street side of its cul-de-sac, Pablo Neruda’s hillside house is by no means extravagant—in fact, it may be the most conventional of his three houses (the others, also open for visits, are in Valparaíso and the beach community of Isla Negra). Opposite the house, a small amphitheater tucked into the slope is an ideal complement to the residence, restored since its military sacking in 1973 (Neruda, a committed Allende partisan, died only about a month after the coup).
The Fundación Neruda (Márquez de La Plata 0192, tel. 02/7378712, www.fundacionneruda.org) offers hour-long guided tours on a drop-in basis, 10 a.m.–6 p.m. daily except Monday. Guided tours in Spanish cost US$5 per adult, US$1.50 for children; in English or German, the price is US$7 per person. The museum has recently opened a café, bookstore, and souvenir shop.
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Chile, 2nd edition