In the lower Maipo valley, between Peñaflor and Talagante, Undurraga is one of Chilean wine’s traditional big names; dating from the 1880s, its original brick cellars and the wooded gardens—the latter designed by French landscape architect Pierre Dubois—are a national historical monument. Surrounded by one of its four vineyards, the contemporary processing and bottling plants produce mostly cabernet sauvignon, carmenere, and chardonnay.
All the facilities are open for exhaustive guided tours (US$9 pp), which conclude with a sample of three reserve wines and a complimentary glass to take home. The tasting room is also a store with a complete selection of Undurraga wines and souvenirs.
Reservations are essential to visit Viña Undurraga (tel. 02/3722850, www.undurraga.cl), which is 34 kilometers southwest of Santiago via the Autopista del Sol (Ruta 68). Hour-plus tours take place weekdays 10 a.m.–3:30 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m.–1 p.m., and Sunday 10:30 a.m.–1 p.m.
If driving, take the Malloco exit, turn right after paying the toll, and then left at the first traffic light, continuing about two kilometers to the vineyard. From Santiago’s Terminal San Borja (San Borja 184), Buses Peñaflor (tel. 02/7761025) passes the vineyard entrance.
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Chile, 2nd edition