On the sheltered east coast of the Isla Grande, Quemchi is a quaint 19th-century village that began as a timber port but now relies on fishing and salmon farming for its livelihood. It is 63 kilometers southeast of Ancud via the Panamericana and a good paved road that leads east from the hamlet of Degán.
The inexpensive Hospedaje Costanera (Bahamonde 141, tel. 065/691230, US$11 pp) is one of few choices in town. There are a couple of restaurants, including the waterfront El Chejo (Bahamonde 251, tel. 065/691490).
© Wayne Bernhardson from Moon Chile, 2nd edition