The first Chinese immigrants to Cuba arrived in 1847 as indentured laborers. Over ensuing decades, as many as 150,000 Chinese may have arrived to work the fields. They were contracted to labor for eight years for miserable wages insufficient to buy their return. Most stayed, and many intermarried with blacks.

The Sino-Cuban descendants of those who worked off their indenture gravitated to Centro Habana, where they settled in the zones bordering the Zanza Real, the aqueduct that channeled water to the city. They were later joined by other Chinese fleeing persecution, including a wealthy group of California Chinese who arrived with investment opportunities in mind. In time Havana’s Chinese quarter, Barrio Chino, became the largest in Latin America—a mini-Beijing in the tropics.

In the decades preceding the Revolution, Barrio Chino evolved as a center of opium dens, brothels, peep shows, and sex clubs. The vast majority of Chinese left Cuba immediately following the Revolution; those who stayed were encouraged to become “less Chinese and more Cuban.”

In 1995, the government of China funded a Pórtico Chino (Dragon Gate) across Calle Dragones, between Amistad and Aguila, announcing visitors’ entry from the east.

Nearby, the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Caridad del Cobre (Manrique #570, esq. Salud, tel. 07/861-0945; Tues.–Fri. 7:30 a.m.– 6 p.m., Sat. 7:30 a.m.–noon, Sun. 7:30 a.m.–noon and 4–6 p.m.) was erected in 1802 and features exquisite statuary, stained-glass windows, and a gilt altar.

Today, Barrio Chino is a mere shadow of its former self, with about 400 native-born Chinese and perhaps 2,000 descendants still resident. Approximately a dozen social associations (casinos) attempt to keep Chinese culture alive.

The Casa de Artes y Tradiciones Chinas (Salud #313, e/ Gervasio y Escobar, tel. 07/863-9632, Mon.–Fri. 8:30 a.m.–5:30 p.m., Sat. 8:30 a.m.–noon) features a small gallery, and tai chi and dance classes are offered.

The Casa Abuelo Lung Kong Cun Sol (Dragones #364, e/ Manrique y San Nicolás, tel. 07/862-5388 or 863-2061, daily noon–midnight) exists to support elders in the Chinese community; on the third floor, the Templo San Fan Kong has an exquisitely carved gold-plated altar. Visitors are welcome at all casinos.

In 1995, the government of China funded a Pórtico Chino (Dragon Gate) across Calle Dragones, between Amistad and Aguila, announcing visitors’ entry from the east.

Callejón Cuchillo

Pedestrian-only Callejón Cuchillo (Knife Alley) is lined with Chinese restaurants and glows at night with Chinese lanterns. Ernest Hemingway used to eat at the defunct Restaurante Pacífico (San Nicolás, esq. Cuchillo), as did Fidel Castro.

Two blocks to the southwest, the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Caridad del Cobre (Manrique #570, esq. Salud, tel. 07/861-0945, Tues.–Fri. 7:30 a.m.–6 p.m., Sat. 7:30 a.m.–noon, Sun. 7:30 a.m.–noon and 4–6 p.m.), erected in 1802, features exquisite statuary, stained glass, and gilt altar.