A highlight of any stay in Havana is a visit to the Fábrica de Tabaco Partagás (Partagás Cigar Factory, Industria #520, e/ Dragones y Barcelona, tel. 07/863-5766, Mon.–Fri. 9–11 a.m. and noon–3 p.m., guided tour CUC10), on the west side of the Capitolio.

The classical Spanish-style facade of this four-story structure is capped by a roofline of baroque curves topped by lions. Here you can see Cuba’s premium cigars being hand-rolled for export. The factory specializes in full-bodied cigars such as the Montecristo and, of course, the Partagás, one of the oldest of the Havana brands, started in 1843 by Catalan immigrant Don Jaime Partagás Ravelo.

Partagás was murdered in 1868—some say by a rival who discovered that Partagás was having an affair with his wife—and his ghost is said to haunt the factory.

Guided tours (45 minutes) are offered every 15 minutes. Buy tickets in advance at either Hotel Saratoga (Paseo del Pradode Martí #603, esq. Dragones, tel. 07/868-1000) or Hotel Habana Libre Tryp (Calle L, e/ 23 y 25, tel. 07/834-6100).