Immediately south of El Templete, Hotel Santa Isabel, is the former Palacio del Conde de Santovenia (Baratillo, e/ Narciso López y Baratillo y Obispo), now the Hotel Santa Isabel. Its quintessentially Cuban-colonial facade is graced by a becolumned portico and, above, wrought-iron railings on balconies whose windows boast stained-glass mediopuntos.

The conde (count) in question was famous for hosting elaborate parties, most notoriously a three-day bash in 1833 to celebrate the accession to the throne of Isabel II that climaxed with the ascent of a gaily decorated gas-filled balloon. Later that century it served as a hotel, as it is today. President Carter stayed here during his visit to Havana in 2002.

Half a block east of Hotel Santa Isabel, on Calle Baratillo, the Casa del Café (tel. 07/866-8061, Mon.–Sat. 9 a.m.–7 p.m., Sun. 9 a.m.–2 p.m.) serves all kinds of Cuban coffees; next door stands the Taberna del Galeón (tel. 07/866-8476, Mon.–Sat. 9 a.m.–7 p.m., Sun. 9 a.m.–2 p.m.), the “House of Rum” (a rum and cigar store).