At the top of La Rampa is the Parque Coppelia (Calle 23 y L, Tues.–Sun. 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m.), the name of a park in Havana, of the flying saucer–like structure at its heart, and of the brand of excellent ice cream served here.

In 1966, the government built this lush park with a parlor in the middle as the biggest ice creamery in the world, serving up to an estimated 30,000 customers a day.

Cuba’s rich diversity can be observed standing in line at Coppelia on a sultry Havana afternoon.

The strange concrete structure, suspended on spidery legs and looming over the park, shelters a marble-topped bar where Cubans sit atop bar stools slurping ice cream from stainless steel bowls. A series of circular rooms lie overhead like a four-leaf clover, offering views over open-air sections where helados (ice cream) is enjoyed beneath the dappled shade of lush jagüey trees.

Each section has its own cola (line), proportional in length to the strength of the sun. Even on temperate days, the colas snake out of the park like lethargic serpents and onto nearby streets. Waitresses serve customers at communal tables made of local marble.

Coppelia was featured in Tomás Gutiérrez Alea’s trenchant classic movie, Fresa y Chocolate, based on Senel Paz’s short story, “The Woods, the Wolf, and the New Man.” The movie is named for the scene at Coppelia where Diego, a gay man, orders strawberry ice cream, much to the consternation of David, a loyal fidelista: “Although there was chocolate that day, he had ordered strawberry. Perverse.”

After the movie’s success, Cuban males, concerned with their macho image, avoided ordering strawberry.