San Cristóbal is best left for a day trip. There are no satisfactory accommodation choices, but if it is a gastronomic tour of the Southwest that you are making, make sure not to miss Pastelería Chichita (Calle General Leger 58, tel. 809/528-3012, 7:30 a.m.–midnight). This café-style restaurant has been around for over 50 years satisfying the people in San Cristóbal.

Lately, the word of locals has spread and it has become a must-stop eatery with traditional Dominican favorites one would usually find at family celebrations: pastelitos and empanadas, kipe, sancocho, a truly killer cosido (RD$125), arepitas, fish, and plátano. They are most famous for their pasteles en hojas, which are similar to a tamale wrapped in a banana leaf; add a little catsup or hot sauce and they are a delectable treat.

Fela’s Place (General Leger 55, tel. 809/288-2124, 8 a.m.–midnight) is a very informal place of cheap eats serving Dominican fare and specializing in chicken. San Cristóbal is known as the capital of the pasteles en hoja, a traditional dish made from plantain with meat or chicken sometimes added to the mixture that is then wrapped like a present in a banana leaf and boiled. Fela’s is another of many of the good cheap-eat spots where you can get these little bundles for a quick and economical meal (about US$0.50 each), served with hot sauce on the side.