Planning Your Time
A quick note of orientation: The park’s South Rim is further delineated into the West Rim, including the Grand Canyon Village area west to the end of Hermit Road, and the East Rim, beginning where Highway 64 turns east and ending at Desert View. The East Rim is generally higher, cooler, and less visited than the West Rim, well worth the additional 2-6 hours it takes to explore this side of the canyon.
You can sample the South Rim in two days, but a week allows time for a hike or two, a mule trip, and a leisurely exploration of the overlooks east and west of Grand Canyon Village. You can access the South Rim from either the south or the east, and it’s possible to plan a loop route through Flagstaff. If you arrive from one direction and return in the other, you’ll see a lot more of the Grand Canyon region, including the Navajo Reservation, Wupatki and Sunset Volcano National Monuments, the San Francisco Peaks, and the Route 66 towns of Flagstaff and Williams.
Set aside at least an hour or two during your visit to explore Grand Canyon Village. History and architecture buffs will want to spend even longer admiring the village’s landmark structures, including El Tovar lodge, the train depot, and Lookout Studio. Buildings and sidewalks are most crowded during the afternoon, when tour buses unload and the train pulls into the station, so consider taking your village walking tour after dinner. Most of the gift shops, including historic Hopi House and Kolb Studio, are open late.
Beware of slipping into the dreaded village shuffle, though. You’ll know you’ve succumbed when you find yourself staring zombielike at a gift-shop selection of polished rocks for the third time that day.
The remedy? Remember that the main attraction is the canyon itself. From east to west, overlooks are scattered along the rim like beads on a string, each offering a different perspective on the complex network of tributaries and temples that make up Grand Canyon. It helps to memorize a few landmarks, like Vishnu Temple, Plateau Point, or the Battleship, then watch how they seem to reshape themselves as distance or daylight changes.
You could easily spend two to four hours exploring the views west of the village, taking the Hermit Road shuttle or walking along sections of the gentle Rim Trail. For the best photos and fewest crowds, time your visit to the overlooks along Hermit Road for early morning. Sunsets are also dramatic, and crowds gather for the show like they would for an opening-night symphony performance.
The East Rim overlooks are less crowded, and you have the option of touring them in your own vehicle, although you could also choose a guided motor-coach tour. (The exception is Yaki Point, closed to private vehicles year-round.) Although it’s just 30 miles from the village to Desert View the easternmost overlook, you’ll need at least two hours to explore this section of the park. Sunrise and sunset panoramas of the eastern canyon and the river’s broad Unkar Delta are especially good from Lipan Point or Desert View. Archaeology buffs will enjoy the guided walk of Tusayan Ruins, and kids will love climbing the watchtower at Desert View.
If you want to get to the bottom of the canyon, you’ll need at least two days for mule riders or strong hikers, longer if you plan to explore some of the canyon’s length. Corridor trails are the best choice for those new to hiking or to the canyon. Wilderness trails require backcountry skills and are best attempted in three days or more. Advance planning is essential, and backcountry permits go quickly for popular areas.
Do not attempt to hike from the rim to the river and back in one day. Park rangers rescue about 400 people a year in Grand Canyon, most of whom have overestimated their abilities. Day-hike destinations such as the Bright Angel resthouses, Dripping Springs, Ooh Aah Point, Cedar Ridge, and Horseshoe Mesa are scenic, historic, and most definitely geologic. Though permits aren’t required for day hikes, you still need to plan ahead to ensure you have adequate water, salty snacks, and sun protection.
The myriad warnings about hiking in the canyon are meant to help you prepare, not to dissuade you. Walking below the rim, even a short distance, takes you into a different realm where your senses seem fresh and new and the world seems very, very old.
Weather and Seasons
In summer, temperatures along the rim are pleasant, topping out in the 80s. Because of low humidity and high elevation, daytime and nighttime temperatures can vary 30°F or more, so plan to wear layers and shed them by midday. On summer afternoons, temperatures below the rim can rise above 100°F, so plan your outdoor activities for early in the day. Afternoon thunderstorms are likely in July and August.
Spring and fall are usually ideal for outdoor activities, though the weather can change quickly. Hang on to your hat—sometimes literally. Sudden wind gusts can catch you by surprise, especially along overlooks.
The South Rim is open year-round, and winter hikes into the canyon might start in ice and snow, making trails treacherous, before leading into pleasant low-desert temperatures along the Colorado River.
Most winter precipitation lands on the South Rim between December and March, but snowstorms can strike anytime from November through May, occasionally making travel difficult. Closed roads usually reopen within a day or two, giving you access to a wonderland of pines embellished by snow and icicles.
© Kathleen Bryant from Moon Grand Canyon, 5th Edition