Head west from Quetzaltenango 15 kilometers through the valley to the prosperous farming village of San Juan Ostuncalco, with a lively Sunday market. From the adjacent town of Concepción Chiquirichapa, the road climbs into the surrounding mountainside before once again descending into a fertile agricultural valley occupied by the village of San Martín Sacatepequez, also known as San Martín Chile Verde. Much of the land’s fertility is owed to its proximity to Santa María Volcano, which provides ash-rich soil. It’s a mixed blessing, however, as demonstrated by a 1902 eruption that buried the village in several feet of ash and volcanic rocks.

San Martín, a Mam-speaking village, is a standout for its beautiful village costume consisting of a long white tunic with red stripes and elaborate embroidery around the cuffs, worn by village men. The look is completed with a bright red sash worn around the waist. The women wear bright red huipiles with blue cortes.