Cafetería Pamplona (tel. 504/550-2639, 7 a.m.–8 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 8 a.m.–8 p.m. Sun.), on the square, always has a large crowd of cigarette-smoking, coffee-guzzling locals chatting or reading the newspaper at the Formica tables while soft elevator music plays. The Spanish owner, who oversees the place from behind the bar, has decorated the interior with blown-up photos of the famed running of the bulls. The espresso is very good, and the extensive menu is moderately priced at US$2.50–4.50 for a full entrée. This is a good place to get an inexpensive meal: Breakfasts start at US$1.20 and run up to US$5.50, sandwiches are US$1.50–3.75, and pastas cost US$3.75–4.75. The menu tops out at the US$9 steak.

Café Skandia (6 a.m.–10 p.m. daily) in the Gran Hotel Sula has good service, an extensive menu, and reasonably priced food. It’s always hopping, and resident expats meet here daily in the morning for a cup of coffee.

A ladies-who-lunch kind of place, Cake Design’s (8 Calle SO at 19 Av., tel. 504/553-3167, 10 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) has all manner of salads, quiches, sandwiches, and croissants for US$6–7, as well as daily soup specials and, of course, cakes.