Between Mangrove Bight in the east and West End Beach are a series of very fine white-sand beaches, populated only by low-key resort hotels tucked into the edge of the forest. For maximum enjoyment, stay a couple of days out here, either in one of the hotels or camping (bring everything needed, including water). Day trips while staying in either Mangrove Bight or Bonacca are also feasible. Don’t forget to come prepared for sand flies and mosquitoes; they can be fierce on the north side.

About a 45-minute walk west of Mangrove Bight by trail begins a stretch of beautiful beach winding around to Michael’s Rock, a rocky headland jutting into the ocean. The entire beach is lovely, but the best sections—two stretches of powdery sand and brilliant pale blue water separated by a grove of coconut palms—are right on either side of the headland. Small patches of reef around Michael’s Rock offer snorkeling possibilities, but the main reef is over a kilometer offshore.

On the way to Michael’s Rock is Bo Bush’s Island House. Not far from Bo’s place, a small creek comes out of the hills, and a trail follows it a half-hour walk uphill to a small waterfall surrounded by lush vegetation.

From Michael’s Rock, Dina Beach is visible farther southwest, but walking is difficult as the trail passes through thick underbrush in order to bypass rocky coastline. It’s better to get dropped off by boat and picked up later instead of trying to walk from Mangrove Bight. This is a great beach for camping, but there’s no fresh water anywhere nearby, so be sure to bring enough.

Southwest of Dina Beach, near the mouth of the canal, is Soldado Beach, the reputed site of Columbus’s landing in 1502. Nearby is a half-built monument marking the event—Spain donated money for a small museum, but somehow the money didn’t go as far as expected. The snorkeling is great here.

West End Beach, west past the canal on the north side of the island, is a long stretch of beautiful, virtually unoccupied beach. The only facility in West End is the West Peak Inn. A nearby trail ascends to the top of West Peak (94 meters) for views across Guanaja and over to Barbareta and Roatán.