The best cheap eats (baleadas, licuados, etc.) are at the comedores lining the road away between the beach and the fort—look for Comedor Doña Rafa, which serves generous portions for just a couple of bucks.

For seafood, and a relatively more upscale setting, try the restaurant at Flamingo’s (tel. 504/658-9199), built on a terrace overlooking the water, which with its linen tablecloths is far more charming than most of the beachfront shacks. Entrées range US$9–11, which is no longer any more expensive than other places, now that the seafood shacks have inflated their prices to make the most of the tourist trade. There is even a vegetarian pasta on Flamingo’s menu for those who have tired of seafood.

If you decide to try one of the other restaurants or champas crowding the beach area, ask yourself these questions: How loud do I want my music? How bright do I want my lights? How cheap do I want my fish? Then go out and make some comparisons. Aquí Pancha (504/658-9172), right on the intersection where the Omoa road reaches the beach, is a long-time, relaxed favorite run by a friendly local family serving up seafood dishes for US$5–8. Champa Johnson, a nice, shady spot that plays mellower music than some of the others, serves up seafood—grilled, fried, ceviche, or soup—in the US$5–9 range.

On the road between the fort and the highway is Punto Italia (9 a.m.–9 p.m. Wed.–Sun.), with pizza, pasta, and other Italian specialties for US$6–15, as well as a small grocery store with a small selection of gourmet goodies such as olives and anchovies.