Clearly the realization of a personal vision of paradise is Hotel Maya Vista (tel./fax 504/448-1497, www.mayavista.com, from US$46 s, US$52 d), a multitiered coral structure perched high on a hill just east of the bus station, offering breathtaking views across the bay. Built by French-Canadian owner Pierre Couture, the hotel has a range of rooms, including singles, doubles, triples, a suite, and an apartment (the latter has two bedrooms, three beds, and goes for US$99 per night).

The nine rooms are stylishly decorated and feature French doors, terra-cotta floors, and plenty of windows; all have balconies overlooking the sea, and several of the walls and ceilings have been painted by local artists. Pierre and his wife are wonderful hosts, and the hotel restaurant serves excellent food 7 a.m.–9 p.m. daily, later if the hotel is full. Meal packages are available. Be sure to make reservations, as they are frequently booked up.

On the park, the modern Gran Hotel Presidente (tel. 504/448-2821, fax 504/448-0019, US$26 s, US$53 d) looks promising at first glance but is dark at night and not terribly clean (beware the roaches!), and the pool is murky.