About halfway up the mountain road between Gracias and La Esperanza, where a side road turns south toward Erandique, is the town of San Juan, set amidst fine countryside. Peace Corps volunteers have worked with the community to develop tourist information and amenities for naturalist and cultural experiences in the region, including local guides, simple but clean accommodations, and good food, all at very reasonable prices.

Getting to San Juan

San Juan is 83 kilometers, or about 70 minutes, from Gracias, on a road that is well-paved for all but the last 10 minutes. Buses cost US$2.35 and depart San Juan for Gracias a 6, 8:30, and 11:30 a.m. and 12:30 p.m. While the roads of San Juan itself can be rutted messes, there is another small paved section right after town, which turns into a well-maintained dirt road after a few minutes, leading to La Esperanza.

Buses from San Juan to La Esperanza also cost US$2.35, and leave at 6, 6:30, 7:30, 8:20, and 9 a.m. (Check with Gladys or other people in town for current bus schedules—it’s often just as easy or easier to catch a jalón in a pickup.) It takes about an hour from San Juan to La Esperanza.