Watkins Glen State Park

Created some 12,000 years ago during the last Ice Age, Watkins Glen State Park (off Rte. 14/414, 607/535-4511, 8 a.m.–dusk daily May–Nov., parking $6–8) is a wild and raggedy gorge flanked by high cliffs and strange, sculpted rock formations. Through its center rushes Glen Creek, dropping some 700 feet in two miles over rapids, cascades, and 19 waterfalls.

Alongside the gorge runs the 1.5-mile Gorge Trail, made up of 832 stone steps, stone paths, and numerous bridges. The trail leads past tunnels, caves, and a natural stone bridge, all carved out of the sedimentary rock by Glen Creek. If you hike the trail on a fine summer’s day, you’ll have lots of company, but the gorge inspires awe nonetheless.

The park also offers campgrounds; for reservations, call 800/456-CAMP.

Accommodations

One of the more idiosyncratic hostelries in the area is the Seneca Lodge (Rte. 329, off Rte. 14/414 at the south entrance to Watkins Glen State Park, 607/535-2014, $75–99). A favorite haunt of bow hunters and race mechanics, the lodge centers on a restaurant and Tavern whose back wall, bristled with arrows, looks like the hide of a porcupine and from whose ceiling hang Nascar Champs’ tires and Formula One laurel wreaths. As the tradition goes, the first bow hunter to shoot a deer each season shoots an arrow into the wall. Accommodations consist of very basic camp-style A-frames, cabins, and motel rooms with one larger four bedroom available.

Magnolia Place Bed and Breakfast (5240 Rte. 414, Hector, 607/546-5338, www.magnoliawelcome.com, $140–190), an 1830 farmhouse located about seven miles outside of Watkins Glen, offers eight suites overlooking Lake Seneca. Innkeepers talented in the culinary arts host wine tastings and create hot breakfasts of ‘Dutch babies’ with Cinnamon Biscuits, or corn fritters with house-smoked salmon, crème fraiche, and a poached egg, as well as providing homemade evening sweets and dinner or hors d’oeuvres on request.

Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel (16 N Franklin St., 607/535-6116, www.watkinsglenharborhotel.com, $159–229) situated right on the water is a lovely new hotel with an upscale boutique feel. A favorite of the NASCAR drivers and entourage during race weekends, the large airy rooms feature lush bedding and spa-style baths. Three dining options include al fresco in season, a classic country club sports bar, and Bluepointe Grille restaurant.

Food

Chef’s Diner (Rte. 14, 607/535-9975) is a classic American eatery, now in its sixth decade. Come here for tasty pancakes or grilled-cheese sandwiches.

Wildflower Café and Crooked Rooster Brewpub (223-301 N. Franklin St., 607/535-9797, $8–14) offers tasty organic fare, from creative sandwiches to hearty meals. Bob and June’s Organic Coffee is roasted on the premises and Rooster Fish Fine Craft Ales are another big draw—ideal for tasting at $1.25 for 4-ounce samplers.

Chef-owned Dano’s Hueriger (9564 Rte. 414, Lodi, 607/582-7555, $12) with glass-walled lakeside dining combines the tastes of a traditional Viennese wine restaurant with the Finger Lake’s best vintages. Charcuterie and schnitzel, authentic Viennese casual ordering style and Austrian traditions, like a festival celebrating the harvest with newly fermented wine, add to the allure. A chef’s table is available on request for parties of six or more.

Just west of the village, you’ll find Castel Grisch Estate (3380 County Rd. 28, off Rte. 409, 607/535-9614, $8–16), a winery with a German-style restaurant. It’s open for lunch and dinner Friday–Sunday. Outside is a deck with lake views.

At the Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel, Bluepointe Grille (16 N Franklin St., 607/535-6116, www.watkinsglenharborhotel.com, $26) is a fine dining restaurant where the talents of Chef Chris Hascall are expressed through signature dishes such as Rack of Lamb, Eggplant Strato, and Wild Mushroom Ravioli. Helping this success is the hotel’s membership in the Finger Lakes Culinary Bounty, a program where properties sign on to use freshly delivered locally grown products in their menus.

© Avalon Travel and Sascha Zuger from Moon New York State, 5th Edition