Part scruffy mountain village, part cheery tourist town, Tannersville—named for its once-extensive tanning industry—is now home to a few shops and cafés, several inns and B&Bs, and a large number of tattoo parlors.

In the village center, you’ll find Maggie’s Krooked Cafe (3066 Main St., 518/589-6101), offering home-cooked specialties such as pancakes and fried shrimp in beer batter (open for lunch and dinner only).

Another café on Main Street, Last Chance Antique and Cheese Cafe (602 Main St., 518/589-6424), is a combination store/café featuring overstuffed sandwiches, homemade soups, cheeses, and chocolates.

The popular Eggery Inn (288 Platte Clove Rd./County Rd. 16, off Rte. 23A, 518/589-5363, $119–149 d with breakfast) has accommodated guests since 1900. The inn features a wood-burning Franklin stove, heavy oak bar, wraparound porch, and great views of the Catskills.

Another favorite lodging option is the nearby Redcoat’s Country Inn & Restaurant (50 Dale Ln. off Elka Park Rd., Elka Park, 518/589-9858, $99–139 d with breakfast), an English-style inn housed in an attractive 1850s farmhouse. Attached is a cozy restaurant (entrées $12–28) serving Continental fare. The restaurant is open for dinner on weekends only.