There are a handful of great places to stay, all in downtown Rochester. In a city of nearly all chain hotels, the Inn on Broadway (26 Broadway, 585/232-3595, www.innonbroadway.com, $169–199) is a boutique hotel housed in the historic 1929 University Club of Rochester. Luxury rooms include polished hardwood floors and natural stone bathrooms with extra touches like multi-headed showers, Jacuzzi tubs, Keurig coffeemakers, and gas fireplaces. Complimentary continental breakfast is served in elegant Tournedos, featuring in-house dry-aged beef, seafood flown in daily from Hawaii, and a wine list with over 550 selections.

The cheap and basic East Avenue Inn (384 East Ave., 585/325-5010, www.theeastavenueinn.com, $59–79), offers some of the lowest prices in the nightclub district.

One of the loveliest bed-and-breakfasts in Rochester is the Dartmouth House (215 Dartmouth St., 585/271-7872, www.dartmouthhouse.com, $99 twin room, $139–159), a spacious English Tudor home with a fireplace, window seats, very knowledgeable hosts, and three luxurious guest rooms equipped with private baths and phones. The B&B is within easy walking distance of the museums and many cafés and shops.

Another good B&B choice is the romantic Edward Harris House Inn (35 Argyle St., 585/473-9752, $149–189), with nice touches like fresh flowers, robes and towel warmers, sunflower showerheads, all organic and natural breakfasts, and welcome snack baskets.