Here’s a chance to forge a trail on your own: The decerepit inland port town of Puerto Morazán is the gateway to the magnificent and sinuous Estero Real Wetlands Reserve, whose mangrove-filled estuary provides habitat for countless marine species and birds.

The estuary is gorgeous, even if its “protected” status has been largely ignored by government officials and the shrimp industry over the years.

Morazán has not always been so poor. During World War II, Morazán’s port, railway terminus, and customs office saw the movement of tons of cargo bound for European and North American destinations. When the war ended, so did Morazán’s brief prosperity, and when Volcán Chonco erupted, damaging the railroad tracks, the final nail was put in Morazán’s coffin.

During Hurricane Mitch Morazán flooded so severely only the church steeple appeared over the surface of the water. Shortly after Mitch, the community rebuilt itself on its original site, disregarding the humanitarian assistance community’s plan to relocate the community to higher ground.

Take a bus from El Viejo and ask around for a local guide or boat driver. The mayor’s office may help guide you in the right direction. You won’t be disappointed by the extraordinary variety of wildlife, nor by the amazing view of Volcán Cosigüina.