Locally owned and operated hotels make up most of the recommendations of this guide. Many veteran travelers find it hard to understand why people come to Oaxaca and spend $200 a day for a super-plush hotel room when simpler but comfortable alternatives run as little as $30.

In Oaxaca City, many such hotels are within easy walking distance of the town center, with its lovely plaza, restored old monuments, restaurants, and shops. In the Puerto Escondido and Puerto Ángel resorts, most of them are either right on the beach or very near it. Local hotels, which depend at least as much on Mexican tourists as foreigners, generally have clean, large rooms, often with private view balconies, ceiling fans, and toilet and hot- water bath or shower. What they often lack are the plush extras—air-conditioning, cable TV, phones, tennis courts, exercise gyms, spas, and saunas—of the luxury resorts.

Booking local hotels is straightforward. Many of them can be emailed and all of them can be dialed or faxed directly (from the United States, dial 011-52, followed by the telephone or fax number given in this guide) for information and reservations. If your Spanish is rusty, ask for someone who speaks English (ask, in Spanish: “¿Por favor, hay alguien que habla Inglés?”—por fah-VOR, AY ahhl-ghee-AYN KAY AB-lah een-GLAYS?). Always ask about money-saving packages and promotions when reserving.